Another important tool is a good quality badger-hair shaving brush. This will help to gently exfoliate the skin. The best place and the best time to shave are in the shower or immediately after one. The steam will help to open pores, which in turn causes whiskers to rise so they are easier to cut. If the bathroom mirror isn't fogged up, the shower isn't hot enough.
After showering, the next step is to wash the face with a bar of soap or a liquid cleanser. If this isn't done, dirt and grime will be trapped in the pores, leading to bumps and blemishes. That will take care of the prep work. More tips to get a perfect shave are explained below.
Applying Shaving Oils and Creams to the Face
Although it may be overlooked, shave oil is crucial to eliminate cuts, nicks and irritation. Pour a dime sized amount into the palm of the hand and work it around the beard thoroughly so the razor will glide easily across the skin. Shaving oils will not leave a greasy residue on the face.
The shaving cream that comes from a tube tend not be alcohol based. These will do a better job of moisturizing the skin than the varieties that come in aerosol cans, and will help to prepare the beard by softening the whiskers. Some can applied by hand and others will need to be worked up some more with a shaving brush. Wet the brush, use it to whip the cream into a rich lather and spread it on in a circular motion.
Using Razors to Shave Properly
A razor should always be drawn in the same direction as the whiskers, i.e. with the grain. The razor should always be fresh, clean and sharp. Begin shaving at the sideburns and leave the sensitive areas around the neck for last. This will give the shaving oil and cream more time to relax the tougher stubble. Always use long, even strokes and rinse the blade frequently. Using a razor with a lubrication strip will lessen the friction between the blade and the skin.
Going over the beard twice makes for the closest shave possible. Before the second pass, lather up once again but with less cream this time, and carefully shave against the grain. Some men may prefer to use water to see what they are doing. Never push too hard on the razor; this doesn't create a closer shave. Rather, it increases the chances of cuts and razor burn. If the skin is really sensitive, this step can be skipped.
Rinsing the Skin and After Shave Care
After shaving, rinse the face with cold water. This will close the pores and soothe the skin. Pat the face dry with a clean towel, taking care not to rub the skin, and apply a small amount of after shave balm that has no alcohol in it. Even if it's done in the right way, shaving can remove up to two layers of skin. No other regular activity does this, which is why it's important to replenish lost nutrients by using an after shave balm and moisturizer in one.
Following the above steps will help to achieve optimum skin health. Razors should be changed somewhere between every three and ten shaves. Two weeks is too long to go without replacing a blade. If it becomes dull, throw it away. Shaving with a straight razor requires great skill and it's a job that might be best left to professional barbers.
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